New Zealand Aromatic Grape Varieties
"Maybe Riesling is the unsung hero of New Zealand wine", states Rosemary George in her book "The Wines of New Zealand". However, with a climate ideal for the production of aromatic wines, praise is now resounding for the increasing number of vibrant, world-class and regionally distinctive examples of New Zealand Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris.

Origins of Aromatic Grape Varieties in New Zealand
Although extremely popular in New Zealand in the 1970s, plantings of the aromatic varieties Muller Thurgau and Muscat have declined dramatically in more recent years due to the industry-wide focus on more premium quality varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. Whilst Riesling was present in the early days of New Zealand viticulture, it is only since the mid 1970s that it has started to be planted in volume and has since captured international acclaim with the exuberant and world class wines. Plantings of Gewürztraminer still occupy less than a sixth of the Riesling hectarage, however since their appearance in the early 1970s they have enjoyed rapid growth and acclaim. Likewise Pinot Gris which although in existence last century in New Zealand, has only in the 1990s found popularity with winemakers and consumers.

Regional Focus
The warm and moderately fertile plains of Gisborne attracted large hectarage of Muller Thurgau and Muscat varieties as well as being the birthplace for high quality Gewürztraminers in the early 1970s. Most regions are now focusing on more premium aromatic varieties, of which Riesling is the most popular. Riesling favours cool climates and long sunshine hours and so is most common in the South Island regions, although Gisborne and Hawkes Bay do produce rich, full-flavoured examples. The South Island regions produce Riesling with a more vibrant, crisp character, with a diverse array of regional styles ranging from steely, dry Riesling to intensely sweet, lush, botrytis-affected wines. Botrytised wines are produced in most regions when vintage conditions allow the development of "noble rot". Due to sanctions that currently prevent their export to the EU, botrytised aromatic styles are perhaps one of the country's most exciting wine secrets. The early ripening Gewürztraminer is now planted in just about every New Zealand wine region, with almost two thirds of all plantings in Gisborne and Hawkes Bay. The grape performs with distinction here, producing wines bursting with pungent scents and spicy flavours. Growth of plantings and fine examples of the variety are also to be found in Wellington, Marlborough and Central Otago. Pinot Gris too has spread rapidly throughout the country, with Marlborough and Canterbury home to more than half the total production and delivering wines with rich, flinty, fruit-laden character.

Vineyard and Winemaking Influences
Standard canopy management techniques are employed to induce maximum flavour in the late-ripening Riesling, and with the more temperamental and earlier-ripening Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris. Some grapes are allowed an extended period of ripening to produce sweet, late-harvest wines, or may be selectively picked as partial bunches or where botrytis styles are desired. In the winery, after pressing, the juice is chilled, crushed and then allowed to settle, before being fermented by cultured yeast, selected for its ability to ferment cleanly and at cool temperatures. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks takes place at a temperature of 12 - 15 degrees Celsius to ensure optimum fruit intensity.

Aromatic Grape Varieties with Food
The delicate flavours and crisp acidity levels of dry aromatic wines may be enjoyed with a wide range of light to moderately-flavoured salads, seafood and chicken dishes. Slightly sweet aromatic wines are a great accompaniment to spicy Thai and other Asian dishes. They can also suit vegetarian dishes, crab, crayfish and other foods that have a slightly sweet influence. Late-harvest and botrytised wines may be served with desserts, particularly fresh fruit, or with soft blue cheese.